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These nails are commonly used for framing and other structural applications.
Also known as escutcheon pins, these nails have a domed head that sits above the surface.
Drive these nails flush with the surface for a smooth, finished appearance.
For better surface holding, the head is approximately 75% larger than a standard nail head.
A small, flat head makes these nails easier to drive flush to the surface than standard finishing nails.
Also known as scaffold and duplex nails, drive these nails in up to the first head and the second head remains exposed for easy removal.
Also known as ring-shank nails, these nails lock into the fibers of soft woods such as cedar and pine.
The small, easy-to-conceal head sits flush with the surface for a smooth, finished appearance.
Also known as spiral-shank nails, the shank turns as you drive, so these nails provide a strong hold in hard woods such as birch, oak, and maple.
The flat head sits flush with the surface for a smooth, finished appearance.
The domed head sits above the surface.
Also known as spikes, these nails have a larger diameter and longer shank than standard nails.
The plastic coating on the shank makes these nails easy to drive and gives them a strong hold. They are also known as sinker nails.
These nails have the smallest shank and head sizes of our nails for nailers.
Since these plastic nails won’t rust or corrode from water and chemicals, they're often used in place of metal nails for exterior trim, stacked moldings, and siding applications.
Also known as round-head Type U drive screws.
Also known as flat-head Type 21 screws.
The wide, flat head holds fabrics in place.
Flutes on the shank bite into masonry for light duty fastening to brick and uncured concrete.
These steel spikes are manufactured according to AREA (American Railroad Engineering Association) specifications.
The 1" diameter cap keeps the nail head from cutting into felt, foam board, and other soft materials.
Join soft and hard woods.
Use these joiners on soft woods only.
Also known as drive rivets, install these anchors by hammering the pin into the body. Pry out the pin to remove.
These anchors are also known as drive rivets. To install, hammer the pin into the body. Pry out the pin to remove.
These anchors are also known as drive rivets. To install, hammer the screw into the body. Unthread the screw to remove.
Also known as drive rivets, install by hammering the screw into the body. Unthread the screw to remove.
Use in applications requiring high strength.
A tamper-resistant nut prevents unwanted removal of the object you are anchoring.
These 316 stainless steel anchors have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.
A zinc plating provides corrosion resistance in wet environments.
Also known as tap-in or uni-tap rivets, these anchors are barbed to resist pull out. Made from nylon, they're chemical resistant.
These steel anchors are available with corrosion-resistant finishes.
These 18-8 stainless steel anchors have good chemical resistance.
More corrosion resistant than 18-8 stainless steel anchors, these 316 stainless steel anchors have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.
Keep fixtures solidly in place—these anchors have two locking wedges that won't shake loose.
The removable flat head provides a flush finish in countersunk holes.
An open-end cap nut provides a finished appearance.
Also known as mungo anchors, these have large fins that prevent rotation.
Use with any type of sheet metal or wood screw.
Also known as lag shields, these anchors are designed for use with large-diameter wood screws.
Install like a stud anchor—just thread the anchor, a nut, and a washer onto the end of a threaded rod, drive into a hole, and turn the nut to expand the base. Also known as rod anchors, they're often used with threaded rod to hang pipe and wiring.
Also known as double expansion anchors, these expand from both sides for full contact and a secure hold.
Often referred to as four-way expansion anchors, these expand in four directions to resist loosening from vibration.
Also known as caulk-in anchors, these stay secure when there's not much material to hold.
Turn the bolt to expand the nut for a secure hold in concrete. These anchors are often used to anchor machinery.
Bolts are beveled under the head for a flush finish in countersunk holes.
A hex head allows for a secure grip with a wrench.
These stud anchors strengthen the parts of buildings where steel framing connects to concrete. They’re also known as Nelson studs.
18-8 stainless steel anchors have good chemical resistance.
A pivoting toggle bar creates a strong hold.
For narrow holes and small cavities where toggle anchors won't fit.
These stud-style anchors include a nut and a washer.
Used with adhesive in bricks and hollow blocks, such as cinder blocks, these mesh tubes create a stronger hold for rods and studs than other anchors.
High-strength toggle anchors provide an extremely strong hold and stay in position when a bolt is removed.
A spring-loaded toggle holds against the back of the material.
Bolts are beveled under the head for use in countersunk holes.
A shallow head makes these bolts good for low-clearance applications.
Use these stud-style anchors with nuts.
These anchors fit a range of sheet metal and wood screw sizes since they form their own threads when installed.
Easy to install, tap these anchors in like a nail—no drilled hole required.
Fins prevent these anchors from spinning during installation.
A drilled hole is required for installation.
A wing-like toggle holds against the back of the material and spreads the force over a large area to hold 30 lbs. or more.
Use these light duty anchors to hold 20 lbs. or less.
Made of compressed wood, these biscuits fit into slots cut into wood. When glued, they expand for a tight fit.
Along with fencing, these staples can also be used to install suspended ceilings and to secure insulation.
Secure multiple cable bundles with a single holder.
Rails are drilled with consistently spaced holes for multiple mounting options that do not require machining. Use this steel bolt-together framing to build guards, tables, and racks.
Locate metal studs.
This stud finder locates metal or wood studs by measuring changes in wall density.
Pinpoint the location of studs twice as deep as other stud finders. These finders can also detect most metallic objects including rebar, pipe, and conduit.